Tasmota Flash of GLD110HA Smart Globe
Product Summary
-- Arlec Grid Connect Smart Home LED Globe-- 806 Lumen, White only, but controllable colour temp (between 3000k, 5700k)
-- This is the B22 Bayonet version of E27 (Edison screw) model GLD112HA
-- There are GLD120HA (B22) and GLD122HA (E27) models which are also RGB and also some E14 versions.
-- Bought from Bunning NZ, September 2020
-- https://www.bunnings.co.nz/arlec-grid-connect-smart-9w-806lm-rgb-cct-bc-globe_p0111500
-- NZ$22 at time of purchase (RGB versions were around $25)
Photos of the unit and flashing etc
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Q9JUpEVPipmi4LWX8Electronics Summary
-- Contains TYWE3L Chip-- https://developer.tuya.com/en/docs/iot/device-development/module/wifi-module/wifie3lpinmodule
Links & References
https://esphome-configs.io/devices/arlec-grid-connect-smart-led-globe-rgb/Equiv from Aliexpress https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33006613923.html
https://www.reddit.com/r/tasmota/comments/gph67n/arlec_smart_led_globe/
https://templates.blakadder.com/arlec_GLD112HA.html
Tuya-Convert Method not working
As at Sep 2020, the tuya-convert method doesn't work on the iteration of the model I had. When set to flash, the bulb would recognise something happening and come out of setup mode... but tuya-convert would time out. Likely related to this:https://github.com/ct-Open-Source/tuya-convert/issues/483
https://github.com/ct-Open-Source/tuya-convert/wiki/Collaboration-document-for-PSK-Identity-02
Hardware flash
Disassembly-- The opaque cover can be prised off with a screwdriver. There is a bunch of silicon or rubber glue holding it in place.
-- The LED board just pulls off (once a fair bit of that silicon is scraped off). It has a pin socket connector that is slipped over a plug on the main board.
-- You prise out the base bulb pins which are a compression fit and they hold the 230V tails in place. The the main board just pulls out.
Reassembly
-- Putting it all back together later, you just need to align the mains tails though the holes then press the pins back in place which clamps the tails.
-- The cover could probably do with some more silicon to keep it in place but it clips back together loosely.
Flashing with Tasmota
-- Unfortunately the TYWE3L board has 2mm pitch, and I don't have a nice pogo pin clamp at 2mm pitch currently so soldering was necessary. It was easy enough to get some wires soldered on though.
-- TX/RX, 3.3V, GND and GPIO0 are all easily accessible on the TYWE3L edge and flashing with tasmotizer (or similar) and an FTDI was relatively straightforward. I backed up the original firmware, and the first flash timed out for some reason but the second was fine (Flashing the full tasmota.bin was fine)
- In my photos you can see I have GPIO connected with an orange wire and it is then attached to a grey flying lead with a pin - to flash, I just hold this pin on GND on power up (The otange wire isn't connected to the FTDI adaptor in case the photo looks confusing)
- The "FTDI serial Adaptor" seen in the photos is a useful too that comes from Johnathan Oxer at https://www.superhouse.tv/ . The button and connections on it help mainly with connecting to and flashing sonoffs, but also useful for other devices.
Original Firmware Backup
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pElAbTOZ4t8wLH0-oHyyAR4Gc632yWHO/view?usp=sharingCommands for getting and AP up to sniff the original traffic
Used an old Netcomm NP545 wifi usb adaptor (the laptop wifi would not support AP mode)git clone https://github.com/oblique/create_ap cd create_ap sudo make install cd .. sudo create_ap --no-virt wlx006064368445 eno1 AccessPoint pass1234 tcpdump -i eno1 -w capture.pcap