zorruno wikki: Tasmota Flash of GLD110HA Smart Globe

Tasmota Flash of GLD110HA Smart Globe


Product Summary

-- Arlec Grid Connect Smart Home LED Globe
-- 806 Lumen, White only, but controllable colour temp (between 3000k, 5700k)
-- This is the B22 Bayonet version of E27 (Edison screw) model GLD112HA
-- There are GLD120HA (B22) and GLD122HA (E27) models which are also RGB and also some E14 versions.
-- Bought from Bunning NZ, September 2020
-- https://www.bunnings.co.nz/arlec-grid-connect-smart-9w-806lm-rgb-cct-bc-globe_p0111500
-- NZ$22 at time of purchase (RGB versions were around $25)

Photos of the unit and flashing etc

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Q9JUpEVPipmi4LWX8

Electronics Summary

-- Contains TYWE3L Chip
-- https://developer.tuya.com/en/docs/iot/device-development/module/wifi-module/wifie3lpinmodule

https://esphome-configs.io/devices/arlec-grid-connect-smart-led-globe-rgb/
Equiv from Aliexpress https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33006613923.html
https://www.reddit.com/r/tasmota/comments/gph67n/arlec_smart_led_globe/
https://templates.blakadder.com/arlec_GLD112HA.html

Tuya-Convert Method not working

As at Sep 2020, the tuya-convert method doesn't work on the iteration of the model I had. When set to flash, the bulb would recognise something happening and come out of setup mode... but tuya-convert would time out. Likely related to this:
https://github.com/ct-Open-Source/tuya-convert/issues/483
https://github.com/ct-Open-Source/tuya-convert/wiki/Collaboration-document-for-PSK-Identity-02

Hardware flash

Disassembly
-- The opaque cover can be prised off with a screwdriver. There is a bunch of silicon or rubber glue holding it in place.
-- The LED board just pulls off (once a fair bit of that silicon is scraped off). It has a pin socket connector that is slipped over a plug on the main board.
-- You prise out the base bulb pins which are a compression fit and they hold the 230V tails in place. The the main board just pulls out.

Reassembly
-- Putting it all back together later, you just need to align the mains tails though the holes then press the pins back in place which clamps the tails.
-- The cover could probably do with some more silicon to keep it in place but it clips back together loosely.

Flashing with Tasmota
-- Unfortunately the TYWE3L board has 2mm pitch, and I don't have a nice pogo pin clamp at 2mm pitch currently so soldering was necessary. It was easy enough to get some wires soldered on though.
-- TX/RX, 3.3V, GND and I/O 0 are all easily accessible on the TYWE3L edge and flashing with tasmotizer (or similar) and an FTDI was relatively straightforward. I backed up the original firmware, and the first flash timed out for some reason but the second was fine (Flashing the full tasmota.bin was fine)

Original Firmware Backup

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pElAbTOZ4t8wLH0-oHyyAR4Gc632yWHO/view?usp=sharing

Commands for getting and AP up to sniff the original traffic

Used an old Netcomm NP545 wifi usb adaptor (the laptop wifi would not support AP mode)
git clone https://github.com/oblique/create_ap
cd create_ap
sudo make install
cd ..

sudo create_ap --no-virt wlx006064368445 eno1 AccessPoint pass1234

tcpdump -i eno1 -w capture.pcap