Revision history for Dashcams
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CategoryElectricVehicles
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===Mounting It===
Deletions:
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===Where to mount===
Deletions:
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- It is supposed to automatically lock a file recording after an incident (hi G forces...) I haven't checked this. The one incident I knew I needed it, I pressed the button to lock the file anyway.
==Where to mount===
- I generally always mount the camera to the left of the rear vision mirror, as high as I can (but so your can still get the SD card out)
- All the wiring gets tucked in the headliner.
- I install the rear camera first. In a hatch/liftback, I mount on the window in the centre up the top, and carefully route the cable though the rubber grommets and flexible pipe that the other boot lid cables go though.
- The rear cable is routed (I do this in the side of the headliner) to the camera at the front - there is a socket to plug this camera in. You get enough cable from front to rear to do a decent sized car, but check first.
- The 3M mounting pads seem the genuine product and I've never had one let go.
- The main camera can be removed if needed, but check there is enough space to do this as it slides upwards.
- wherever you mount the front camera, make sure you can reach the button that you press to lock a file after an incident.
==Where to mount===
- I generally always mount the camera to the left of the rear vision mirror, as high as I can (but so your can still get the SD card out)
- All the wiring gets tucked in the headliner.
- I install the rear camera first. In a hatch/liftback, I mount on the window in the centre up the top, and carefully route the cable though the rubber grommets and flexible pipe that the other boot lid cables go though.
- The rear cable is routed (I do this in the side of the headliner) to the camera at the front - there is a socket to plug this camera in. You get enough cable from front to rear to do a decent sized car, but check first.
- The 3M mounting pads seem the genuine product and I've never had one let go.
- The main camera can be removed if needed, but check there is enough space to do this as it slides upwards.
- wherever you mount the front camera, make sure you can reach the button that you press to lock a file after an incident.
No Differences
Additions:
- They cut power to the camera at around 11.4V, so there is still enough power to start the vehicle. Most cars will easily get a day or two of recording out of the battery before this whuts off the camera. I am successfully using these in a few vehicles now (I was previously doing this with a [[https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32959313382.html voltage detection and cut-out module]])
Deletions:
No Differences
Additions:
Previous to that I was using a Mobius camera - I have recommended these in the past: https://www.mobius-actioncam.com/ and still use one in one of my cars (now with a Junsun as well).
Deletions:
No Differences
Additions:
===Functions===
- If you push a button (twice if screen is off) it will lock the most recent recording which is nice, ie won't record over it. I do this often.
- the car/lane avoidance stuff is useless to me as it doesn't sound an alarm (visual only.... screen is tiny).
- I haven't really tested the GPS stuff, it embeds the location in metadata and you can review via their windows app (I think this is a standard, so other apps will read it). GPS is most useful for the fact that you don't need to set time/date - it is done automatically,
- You can save recording space by turning on timelapse. It records at a lower frame rate. I use this in one car that has a smaller SD card installed.
- there is movement sensing (i.e. record on movement). I turn this on, but most of the time something is moving in at least one of the cameras. Maybe it is useful if the car is in a garage or something.
- If you push a button (twice if screen is off) it will lock the most recent recording which is nice, ie won't record over it. I do this often.
- the car/lane avoidance stuff is useless to me as it doesn't sound an alarm (visual only.... screen is tiny).
- I haven't really tested the GPS stuff, it embeds the location in metadata and you can review via their windows app (I think this is a standard, so other apps will read it). GPS is most useful for the fact that you don't need to set time/date - it is done automatically,
- You can save recording space by turning on timelapse. It records at a lower frame rate. I use this in one car that has a smaller SD card installed.
- there is movement sensing (i.e. record on movement). I turn this on, but most of the time something is moving in at least one of the cameras. Maybe it is useful if the car is in a garage or something.
Deletions:
- If you push a button (twice if screen is off) it will lock the most recent recording which is nice, ie won't record over it.
No Differences
Additions:
- They cut power to the camera at around 11.4V, so there is still enough power to start the vehicle. Most cars will easily get a day or two of recording out of the battery before this whuts off the camera. I am successfully using these in a few vehicles now (I also built a similar device with a voltage detection circuit)
Deletions:
No Differences
Additions:
- These [[https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000246143133.html ZEROGOGO Hard Wire Kit 12V to 5V Hardwire kits]] are probably the best to enable carpark recording and recording when driving.
- They cut power to the camera at around 11.2V, so there is still enough power to start the vehicle. Most cars will easily get a day or two of recording out of the battery before this whuts off the camera. I am successfully using these in a few vehicles now (I also built a similar device with a voltage detection circuit)
- They cut power to the camera at around 11.2V, so there is still enough power to start the vehicle. Most cars will easily get a day or two of recording out of the battery before this whuts off the camera. I am successfully using these in a few vehicles now (I also built a similar device with a voltage detection circuit)
Deletions:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000246143133.html
They cut power to the camera at around 11.2V, so there is still enough power to start the vehicle. Most cars will easily get a day or two of recording out of the battery before this whuts off the camera. I am successfully using these in a few vehicles now (I also built a similar device with a voltage detection circuit)
No Differences
Additions:
- A power cable with piggyback fuse adaptor, is usually the easiest install. Eg I bought a stack of [[https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32932724540.html tap mini blade fuse adaptors]] to speed up installations.l . You still need something to supply 5V, eg [[https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32971436518.html a buck boost module]]
- I've also purchased a couple of these [[https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Junsun-F20-DC-12-24V-5V-3A-3M-Mini-USB-Hardwire-Kit-for-Dash-Cam-Reaview/1182006_32969561940.html Junsun hardware wire kits]] to save mucking around with getting 5V power for the install:
- I've also purchased a couple of these [[https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Junsun-F20-DC-12-24V-5V-3A-3M-Mini-USB-Hardwire-Kit-for-Dash-Cam-Reaview/1182006_32969561940.html Junsun hardware wire kits]] to save mucking around with getting 5V power for the install:
Deletions:
- I've also purchased a couple of these to save mucking around with getting 5V power for the install: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Junsun-F20-DC-12-24V-5V-3A-3M-Mini-USB-Hardwire-Kit-for-Dash-Cam-Reaview/1182006_32969561940.html
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Additions:
=====Junsun=====
===Summary===
- you can get just the front cam and record in 4k (Around $120), and getting the non-GPS models are slightly cheaper (I'd highly recommend the GPS and rear camera though)
- some quirks, eg the car/lane avoidance stuff is useless as it doesn't sound an alarm (visual only.... screen is tiny). Also, I haven't really tested the GPS stuff, it embeds the location in metadata and you can review via their windows app (I think this is a standard, so other apps will read it). GPS is most useful for the fact that you don't need to set time/date - it is done automatically,
- Quality is fine. Window reflections are a bit annoying, but some sort of shroud would probably solve this. Wide visibility with playback is great.
- A big microSD Card is useful (a 128GB card is working fine on one of mine). Keep a spare SD card in the car in case you want to swap them out in a hurry.
- If you push a button (twice if screen is off) it will lock the most recent recording which is nice, ie won't record over it.
===Powering It===
=====Mobius=====
Previous to that I was using a Mobius camera - I Have recommended these in the past: https://www.mobius-actioncam.com/ and still use one in one of my cars (now with a Junsun as well).
They come with a tripod mount, so I purchased this adhesive mount to mount it in a car for $3
My review a few years ago: https://zorruno.com/2014/dashcams-and-the-80-dollar-mobius/
===Summary===
- you can get just the front cam and record in 4k (Around $120), and getting the non-GPS models are slightly cheaper (I'd highly recommend the GPS and rear camera though)
- some quirks, eg the car/lane avoidance stuff is useless as it doesn't sound an alarm (visual only.... screen is tiny). Also, I haven't really tested the GPS stuff, it embeds the location in metadata and you can review via their windows app (I think this is a standard, so other apps will read it). GPS is most useful for the fact that you don't need to set time/date - it is done automatically,
- Quality is fine. Window reflections are a bit annoying, but some sort of shroud would probably solve this. Wide visibility with playback is great.
- A big microSD Card is useful (a 128GB card is working fine on one of mine). Keep a spare SD card in the car in case you want to swap them out in a hurry.
- If you push a button (twice if screen is off) it will lock the most recent recording which is nice, ie won't record over it.
===Powering It===
=====Mobius=====
Previous to that I was using a Mobius camera - I Have recommended these in the past: https://www.mobius-actioncam.com/ and still use one in one of my cars (now with a Junsun as well).
They come with a tripod mount, so I purchased this adhesive mount to mount it in a car for $3
My review a few years ago: https://zorruno.com/2014/dashcams-and-the-80-dollar-mobius/
Deletions:
==Summary==
- you can get just the front cam and record in 4k (Around $120), and getting the non-GPS models are slightly cheaper.
- some quirks, eg the car/lane avoidance stuff is useless as it doesn't sound an alarm (visual only.... screen is tiny). Also, I haven't really tested the GPS stuff, it embeds the location in metadata and you can review via their windows app (I think this is a standard, so other apps will read it). GPS is most useful as it sets time/date automatically,
- Quality is fine. Window reflections are a bit annoying, but some sort of shroud would probably solve this.
- A big microSD Card is useful (a 128GB card is working fine on one of mine). Keep a spare SD card in the car in case you want to swap them out.
- If you push a button (twice if screen is off) it will lock the most recent recording which is nice.
==Powering It==
====Mobius====
Previous to that I was using a Mobius - I Have recommended these in the past: https://www.mobius-actioncam.com/ and still use one in one of my cars.
They come with a tripod mount, so I use this to mount to mount it in a car for $3
My review a few years ago
https://zorruno.com/2014/dashcams-and-the-80-dollar-mobius/
No Differences
Additions:
Have recently bought these as a dual camera setup, front and rear (2x 1080p for front/rear)
==Summary==
- I've already used it once to send to my insurance company for evidence of an incident!
==Powering It==
**Simplest Method**
- It comes with a cig lighter plug and cable. This is not a very elegant install method (the rear camera has a long cable that plugs into the main camera box)
**Better Method**
- A power cable with piggyback fuse adaptor, is usually the easiest install. Eg I bought a stack of these to speed up installations. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33037810746.html . You still need something to supply 5V, eg a buck boost module https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32971436518.html
- I've also purchased a couple of these to save mucking around with getting 5V power for the install: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Junsun-F20-DC-12-24V-5V-3A-3M-Mini-USB-Hardwire-Kit-for-Dash-Cam-Reaview/1182006_32969561940.html
- You would generally power it from an ACC circuit so it was on when the key was in. If you power it from a permanent you get a permanent record, but your vehicle battery will only last a couple of days if the car wasn't being used.. Installing a switch might be useful, just in case you want some permanent recording (eg if parked on a road overnight)
**Best Method**
- These are probably the best to enable carpark recording and recording when driving.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000246143133.html
They cut power to the camera at around 11.2V, so there is still enough power to start the vehicle. Most cars will easily get a day or two of recording out of the battery before this whuts off the camera. I am successfully using these in a few vehicles now (I also built a similar device with a voltage detection circuit)
==Summary==
- I've already used it once to send to my insurance company for evidence of an incident!
==Powering It==
**Simplest Method**
- It comes with a cig lighter plug and cable. This is not a very elegant install method (the rear camera has a long cable that plugs into the main camera box)
**Better Method**
- A power cable with piggyback fuse adaptor, is usually the easiest install. Eg I bought a stack of these to speed up installations. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33037810746.html . You still need something to supply 5V, eg a buck boost module https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32971436518.html
- I've also purchased a couple of these to save mucking around with getting 5V power for the install: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Junsun-F20-DC-12-24V-5V-3A-3M-Mini-USB-Hardwire-Kit-for-Dash-Cam-Reaview/1182006_32969561940.html
- You would generally power it from an ACC circuit so it was on when the key was in. If you power it from a permanent you get a permanent record, but your vehicle battery will only last a couple of days if the car wasn't being used.. Installing a switch might be useful, just in case you want some permanent recording (eg if parked on a road overnight)
**Best Method**
- These are probably the best to enable carpark recording and recording when driving.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000246143133.html
They cut power to the camera at around 11.2V, so there is still enough power to start the vehicle. Most cars will easily get a day or two of recording out of the battery before this whuts off the camera. I am successfully using these in a few vehicles now (I also built a similar device with a voltage detection circuit)
Deletions:
- A power cable with piggyback fuse adaptor, is usually the easiest install. If you power it permanently you get movement detecting carpark recording also (does it record motion just on video movement or based on vibration?? not sure yet. It does have a 3 axis accelerometer). Installing a switch might be useful I guess... if parked on a road for a long time it would record every car going past.
- I've purchased a couple of these to save mucking around with install: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Junsun-F20-DC-12-24V-5V-3A-3M-Mini-USB-Hardwire-Kit-for-Dash-Cam-Reaview/1182006_32969561940.html
No Differences
Additions:
- I've purchased a couple of these to save mucking around with install: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Junsun-F20-DC-12-24V-5V-3A-3M-Mini-USB-Hardwire-Kit-for-Dash-Cam-Reaview/1182006_32969561940.html
- A big microSD Card is useful (a 128GB card is working fine on one of mine). Keep a spare SD card in the car in case you want to swap them out.
- One of mine failed after a few months, (I've purchased 5 sets now), but is still useable and installed... it is just that the display isn't working.
They come with a tripod mount, so I use this to mount to mount it in a car for $3
- A big microSD Card is useful (a 128GB card is working fine on one of mine). Keep a spare SD card in the car in case you want to swap them out.
- One of mine failed after a few months, (I've purchased 5 sets now), but is still useable and installed... it is just that the display isn't working.
They come with a tripod mount, so I use this to mount to mount it in a car for $3
Deletions:
- A big SD Card is useful (a 128GB card is working fine on mine).
- One of mine failed after a few months, (I've purchased 4 now), but is still useable and installed... it is just that the display isn't working.
They come with a tripod mount, so this is a good option to mount it in a car for $3
No Differences
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